I don't know much myself but I've seen both setups used.
#ATC4 ENGLISH RELEASE MANUAL#
This will help a little bit to manual mill with the ballscrews.ġ option is to use a belt drive/pulley setup between the motors and screws and have manual handles on the ends of the screws.Īnother option is to use dual shaft motors direct drive with handles attached to the rear motor shaft. You could figure out what motors you want to use and fit them early on with the screws and add control elecs later. DanBallscrews are are hell of a lot looser than acme and I'd say you're better off leaving it as is for manual atm. is this possible after the conversion? I expect this to be a lengthy project but would like to do it as efficiently as possible (i.e. Secondly, I'd still like to be able to do simple manual milling. Perhaps even to mill the parts from Hoss' plans and later complete the CNC conversion. After installation will I be able to configure the mill for use manually? The plan would be to do some milling to get familiar. That leads me to consider installing the necessary ball screw upgrades at this time. So that said, I just acquired the mill and I want to take it apart for its initial cleanup (bought it from a fellow that changed his mind for a substantial discount). It seems to me that Hoss' method is the direction I want to go. I have the Grizzly mill and the plan is to convert it to CNC ultimately. so please indulge me a few simple (I think) questions. There is so much info here that my searches have led to frustration trying to find answers.
#ATC4 ENGLISH RELEASE HOW TO#
Really not sure what to do now or how to proceed. Am I just being paranoid, and maybe the original bearings were even fine? Having the quill get so hot I can barely have my hand on it for more than a second or two after running 5 minutes at 2000rpm unloaded doesn't seem normal, especially since most people report temperatures in the low 100s or even sub-100.
I saw far back that Hoss said 140F wasn't bad for normal running conditions, and higher for break in. I'm using the same 32005X and 32007X bearings that came on the machine (albeit a different manufacturer, still Chinese though) and some multi-purpose Lucas Oil grease that I run in the wheel bearings of my truck. Is there a spec for the preload nut? I get it snug with the bearing and then tighten it barely a hair more since I can't find anything of what or how to preload it the correct amount. Everything is still getting wicked hot, I measured 170+ F on the bottom of the quill (big part that doesn't retract into the head), and that was after a long break in process and even taking it apart multiple times and trying different combinations of slight preload change and amount of grease (can't really change anything else it seems).
I pulled it apart and the bearings didn't feel great, so bought some new ones on eBay and installed them today. The quill/spindle on my G0704 is getting insanely hot, particularly the lower section where the bottom angular contact goes. I've been reading a lot of threads and trying to solve an issue I have and this seemed the most appropriate place to post.